As the sun goes down, grills appear on neighbourhood corners. A visitor's guide to the fritanga and the drinks that go with it.
What a fritanga is
A fritanga is a neighbourhood grill and frying station, usually set up in the evening on a porch, a corner or a garage opening onto the street. Families buy dinner here on their way home, and it is the most direct way to taste ordinary Managua food. The menu is displayed on trays: you point at what you want and it is piled onto a plate or wrapped to take away.
What is on the grill
Expect grilled beef (carne asada), chicken and pork, often with gallo pinto, fried cheese, tostones or maduros, a sour cabbage salad, tortillas and spicy pickled onion and chilli on the side. Fried items include enchiladas (fried tortillas filled with meat and rice), tacos rolled and fried until crisp, and papas rellenas. Portions are generous and quick.
Snacks through the day
During the day, street vendors and market stalls sell vigorón and quesillo, rosquillas (crunchy corn-and-cheese biscuits associated with the north), empanadas, roasted corn (elote) and fruit cut into bags with salt and lime. At baseball games and on the Malecón, look for raspados, shaved ice with fruit syrup and condensed milk.
Refrescos
Fruit drinks are sold by the glass or in a small plastic bag with a straw. Common flavours include tamarind, hibiscus, passion fruit (calala), cacao, chía and pinolillo, a drink of toasted corn and cacao. Horchata here is made with toasted seeds and spices. They are usually sweet; ask for less sugar ("con poco azúcar") if you prefer.
Eating well
Choose busy stalls where food is cooked fresh in front of you and turnover is high. If your stomach is sensitive, start with freshly grilled and fried items, eat peeled fruit, and drink bottled or purified water. Carry small notes, and do as locals do: point, smile and say "gracias".